A Chilean pilot joins us to help navigate the ship through the Strait of Magellan. This is required by the authorities.

The Pilots’ ship pulls up alongside the Gould, he steps onboard and is escorted by the First Mate to the Bridge where he will help steer the ship safely through the shifting Strait.

This is our final leg of a 23 day cruise. “Land ahoy…” I welcome the sight!

The Strait of Magellan is known to be a good place for whale-watching. Passengers line edges of the bow and stern, scanning the horizon for tell tale signs of life – a whale spout or dolphin tail. So far, we’ve spotted three dolphins.

I head outside to join them, basking in the morning sunshine, sub-zero Polar temperatures already a fading memory.

THE first Elephant Seal pup of the season has arrived!

A Palmer Station staffer spotted the family while out skiing at sunset.

The pup, its mother and a male have made Bonapart Point their base.

This exposed rocky outcrop is less than a mile from the station as the crow flies, but in winter when the bay is icy, it can only be reached via the glacier.

As word spreads, groups of skiers, snow-shoers and hikers climb and descend the ice-packed glacier, connecting the station to Bonapart Point. Each group outlines their route and maintains constant radio contact with the base.

The four hour round trip and variable coastal weather – which can turn calm blue skies into a stormy white out when the clouds role in – do not dampen spirits.

We find Palmers Stations’ newest arrival lying near to its mother, a short distance from a large male, possibly the father.

Out here, there is little shelter from the elements. The wind whips up and freezing ice rain slashes the air. We are bundled up in many layers of Extreme Cold Weather gear, protecting every inch of skin except our cheeks.

Most of the time, the three animals lay still, conserving energy. Occasionally, the pup flips its fins and the adults raise their heads and give out deep barks.

Zooming in with my camera, I can see that the male seal’s skin is rough and bears deep scars. He is more than twice the size of the female. Although he does not appear to be a threat, I would not like to encounter him alone.

At one point, he lumbers up and launches into a sideways-forwards motion. His enormous blubbery figure and large trunk-like snout justify the name of his breed – Elephant Seal.

The Antarctic Conservation Act mandates that we keep our distance from all wildlife so as not to interfere with the animals’ natural behavior. I am happy to do this!

For the Palmer Station winter-over crew, the new birth is the first sign of the changing seasons. For me, it is my first live encounter with Antarctic wildlife. I am pretty excited.

THE Gould spends a week at Palmer, opening up the Station for the austral summer season when most of the science teams conduct research here.

Day one: The Marine Technicians and Palmer Station staff unload cargo. The onboard crane offloads shipping containers packed with supplies of everything needed on station – from fresh vegetables to medical equipment.

Fresh vegetables, known at Palmer as “freshies” are eagerly awaited by the winter-overs who have long since run out of produce.

Day two: A hose transports fuel from the ship to the to station via the gangway. Refueling takes an entire morning and, like most logistical challenges here at Palmer, involves a large team.

During this time, the gangway is closed. If we want to leave the ship, we must leave early and take everything we need for the day.

The following five days: The winter-overs train the summer crew to ensure a smooth transition. Training may involve learning new equipment and skills or checking inventory and paperwork. Everyone participates in drill training.

Palmer Stations’ remoteness necessitates a well trained team of fire fighters, Emergency Medical Technicians and search and rescue volunteers. In the event of an emergency, there is no outside aid available, so the station must be self-sufficient.

For the first fire drill of the season, the winter overs shadow their summer selves and they break up into task forces.

Each group has a specific role and is expected to complete their task within a certain time period. They have undergone emergency training back in the United States. It’s time to put their skills to the test.

The fire fighting team puts on full fire protective gear and Self Contained Breathing Aparatus. They respond to a simulated emergency: a fire in the Garage Welfare and Recreation building caused by an electrical malfunction.

Meanwhile, a hose team mobilizes the necessary equipment to pump and spray sea water from the bay area.

Observers take notes on the response teams’ performance. All other station staff muster at predetermined locations. Managers complete role calls.

It looks like fun, but is taken very seriously and followed by a de-briefing in the mess hall, locally known as “the galley,” though it’s on dry land.